Day 5 – Jinhudanda to Syauli Bajar

9.4 miles in 6h36
Total climb: 1575 feet, 480m
Total descent: 3485 feet, 1062m
Minimum Elevation: 3660 feet, 1115m
Maximum Elevation: 5594 feet, 1705m

Just like Tadapani, Big D had found us a room with a view, and from our bed we awoke before dawn to an “in the valley” view of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. And, as before, it began cloudy; with excitement we watched as the clouds gradually parted, revealing one peak, then another, then more snow where we thought we’d see sky; to see a mountain appear from nowhere is almost more exciting than an unfettered view.

We had fried eggs for breakfast, with tea and coffee – I was regularly surprised by how good the tea and coffee was in Nepal, and we aimed to leave early for our long day’s trek. This didn’t stop Samantha from running around asking all the other guests if she could borrow some toenail clippers. A Yorkshireman lent her a swiss army knife.

From Jinhudanda we set off downhill, today would be a long slow descent back to our starting point. The slippery path took us past a lego-brick lodge and down to the raging Kimrong river, which later becomes the Modi river. To cross we needed to use a wooden bridge; two logs with planks tied between them, placed on low lying rocks. On the other side a landslide had taken out the path and much of the hill side; a small walkway was carved into the loose mud – Samantha and Big D negotiated it together, Big D holding Sam’s hand for reassurance.

At “new bridge” they were prepping for a great hanging bridge that would cross the valley, saving an hour’s trek, and essential for crossing the river during monsoon season. We could see the concrete supports, and Big D explained that it’d be ready by October.

We stopped to rest at Thakali restaurant, where we enjoyed soft drinks with a Nepali family and their baby, a baby that seemed intent on eating the 100Rs notes we’d given them. A large Russian group passed us; their guide carried radios and video equipment – serious business, he was documenting their tour. One of the trekkers was a large sweaty topless man – our Nepali friend greeted him with a deeply bellowed “Namaste”, while Big D looked on disapprovingly. Goats sat on the furthest wall, including the tiniest cutest baby kid. The tin shed squatter toilet here marked a respectable 3/10, “clean and spacious”, Sam described it.

The trail led us towards the riverbed, along a muddy and tricky path – I skidded with intention, while Hari and Big D looked out for Sam, her feet gave way and she slipped – mouth wide open, expecting to fall, Hari and Big D held her up, no muddy bottom this time, but we did need to refuel on kendal mint cake.

Ahead was another raging river crossing, the flow stronger and faster than before, the water level precariously close to the makeshift wooden bridge. Crossing the Modi river isn’t the usual route, but a landslide up-ahead meant a diversion had been made.

Climbing up from the river, the path opened out into a fairytale wonderland – a luscious green field nestled in the valley, white butterflies filled the air, dancing above flowering thistles, an abandoned stone farm house looking out over everything, cows grazing. The pictures don’t do this place or moment justice, they don’t capture the wonderful smells, the little oasis felt magical.

A sturdy metal bridge took us back across the river and we resumed the original trail. The villages along the Modi river, East of Ghandruk, were a little slice of heaven. Buildings adorned with flowers, great bee hives hanging from cliff edges, the sun shining on long grass, we passed through all too quickly. Trekkers going the other way looked fresh faced and ready, we were nearing the end.

“The last rhododendron”, Big D pointed out, in their place we found the red blooms of silk cotton trees. Now we rejoined the dusty road, gradually returning to civilisation. Buses and cars zoomed by, whirling up clouds of dust for us to cough on, their horns punctuating the silence. Our tranquility was gone. We had the option to follow this road all the way back to Nayapul, but this stretch is unexciting and easy – we opted for a pickup at our lunch spot, Syauli Bazar.

After consuming the last of our sugary reserves; Snickers and Mars bars gone, cereal depleted, we’d rationed ourselves just right, we were ready for lunch, and ready to go home. At the riverside guest house and restaurant we had one more dal bhat and veg fried rice, I celebrated with an Everest beer. Our knees would never be the same again.

Our driver picked us all up, we’d drop Big D and Hari in Pokhara before returning to Pavilions luxury. 1h30 later and we were saying our goodbyes to our wonderful guide and porter, we’d felt safe and happy in their care. A long hot shower beckoned, and a 10/10 toilet to boot. Deependra welcomed us back, and we ended the day with burgers and cocktails by the swimming pool.