A week on Vulcano, Sicily

Mud pools and Maurizio’s

Therasia’s breakfast spread is one to be marvelled. Champagne is included, as are ten types of milk, and juice. And the food, oh the food. Fresh fruit, freshly made Sicilian treats and cakes, over twenty honeys, bread done 15 different ways, salmon, tuna, fine hams and salami, italian cheeses, eggs done anyway you want them and even a crêperie. We gorged ourselves, as much as one can at breakfast.

Our days were restful, we didn’t venture out much, choosing instead to lounge by the pool and read our books. I made my way through A Brave New World, stopping only to cool down in the light blue water or to reapply sun lotion. At the poolside bar we often ate stone baked pizza, sometimes with a Moretti beer to wash it down.

When we did eventually venture out on our first day, we obviously did so at the wrong time, about 2pm. Leaving the confines of the hotel, we also left the sea breeze, and the roads were hot and stuffy. But we persisted, and walked down to Baia Negra, a black sand beach, then along to the smelly mud baths, and quickly away into town. It all took about two hours, and by the quiet port we took the shuttle back home.

Samantha reading about the mud pools
Samantha reading about the mud pools
A sculpture set on smelly yellow sulphur
A sculpture set on smelly yellow sulphur

Maurizio’s

That night we returned, to eat at Maurizio’s, he was fully booked, except for a lonesome table on the street. It was a quiet street, at times quieter than the restaurant, and it afforded us personal service and the chance to watch the world go by. The sky turned pink, then blue, and the first stars appeared. It was warm outside. Maurizio lavished on us his preprepared free hors d’oeuvres (Sam devoured the black bean and spelt with all the potato bread), then Spaghetti Eoliana and Zucchini Linguine, followed with fried Calamari and Swordfish in breadcrumbs. And when we were stuffed, unable to eat anything more, one more treat: almond biscotti and almond wine. “Thank you ever so much”, Sam told Maurizio, “ah, but what for?” he casually replied.

Maurizio’s restaurant
Maurizio’s restaurant

A hike to Vulcanello then a divine meal at Il Cappero →