Thursday was delegated a spa day. In our hotel robes we sauntered down to the free spa, my first real spa experience. We weren’t going for any fancy treatments or massages, those things cost money. I got a little tour, there was a hot and dry Swedish sauna, a humid Turkish sauna, some funky showers that fired water in peculiar ways, and an indoor pool with massaging water jets and whirlpools; sitting down, standing up, on your back, between your toes, bubbles pummelled you in new and exciting ways. There was also a cold pool, kept at a balmy 10C, something you’re meant to walk through after being in the sauna.
At first all this sounded like torture. The steam in the Turkish spa stung my nose, and the hot room was too hot, but after a couple hours and a few cycles through each, I was like a relaxed spa pro — yes, I’d happily do this for money. And tea, there was black tea, smooth scrumptious complimentary tea to end on.
Today was a little cooler and the sky was dotted with clouds. Still, the pool and our books beckoned, and the hours passed by until evening. At 8pm, ready for the sunset with wide angle lens and tripod, we waited with cocktails and bar snacks. The sun streamed through the gaps in the clouds, but never quite lit them in a spectacular way. We took the shuttle into town after that, perused some shops, and were at Maurizios for 9pm, we’d made a reservation this time and had the luxury of sitting inside the restaurant.
It’s a quirky peculiar place. The walls are brushed with gold, and oriental and kitschy ornaments hang together, a large mirror with words sprawled across it, two great japanese parasols and a great bejewelled metal chandelier that looked like the imaginings of a 1920s futurist, half rocket half light fitting. Maurizio welcomed us back, and this time around we enjoyed sardine pasta and pasta del mare, being careful not to order too much. The dessert gift was this time a cardamon wine, with almond biscotti; by description neither of us should like it, but we can’t say we didn’t.